Click & Toggle: Miscellaneous Dash & Body Switches
A vintage dashboard is a collection of tactile switches. When they break, functionality is lost. This category covers the wide range of Body and Chassis Switches.
Inventory Includes:
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Neutral Safety: Prevents starting the car in gear (essential for automatic swaps).
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Door Jamb: The spring-loaded buttons that turn on your dome light.
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Toggle & Rocker: Accessory switches for fog lights, heaters, and wipers.
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Backup Light: Transmission-mounted switches for reverse lights.
The Classic Foot Switch: Floor-Mounted Headlight Dimmers
There is nothing quite like tapping your foot to switch on the high beams. The floor-mounted Dimmer Switch is a staple of vintage motoring, but sitting under the carpet exposes it to moisture from wet shoes, leading to corrosion and stuck lights.
Direct Fit Replacements We stock authentic NORS floor dimmer switches with the correct 3-prong configuration and mounting spacing for Ford, GM, Mopar, and Jeep.
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Symptoms of Failure: Headlights stuck on high or low beam, or lights cutting out completely when you stomp the switch.
Brighten Your Dash: Vintage Headlight Switches
If your headlights flicker or your dashboard gauge lights have gone dark, the culprit is usually the Headlight Switch. These pull-knob switches contain a built-in ceramic rheostat (dimmer coil) that burns out over decades of use.
Authentic Functionality
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Rheostat Control: Our NOS and NORS switches restore the ability to dim your instrument panel lights by rotating the knob.
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Internal Breaker: Many of our units include the built-in circuit breaker to protect your wiring harness.
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Fitment: Specific shaft lengths and connector blocks for Mustang, Camaro, F-100, Chevelle, and more.
Safety Critical: Hydraulic & Mechanical Brake Light Switches
If your brake lights aren't working, you are at high risk of being rear-ended. The Stop Light Switch is the trigger.
Two Types for Vintage Cars:
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Hydraulic (Pressure): Screws directly into the master cylinder. Common on pre-1967 vehicles. If you have to stand on the pedal to get lights, this switch is clogged.
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Mechanical (Pedal): Mounts on the brake pedal arm. Often the plunger sticks or the bracket bends.
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NORS Reliability: Our switches feature quality contacts to ensure your brake lights flash instantly every time you tap the pedal.
Fix the Column: Turn Signal & Directional Switches
If your turn signal lever is floppy, won't cancel after a turn, or your brake lights work on one side but not the other, the Turn Signal Switch inside the steering column is bad.
Complex Wiring Made Easy The turn signal switch routes power for brake lights, flashers, and indicators.
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Direct Fit: We stock correct switches for GM (Boyne/Delco), Ford, and Mopar columns.
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NOS and NORS Quality: Durable plastic cams and properly soldered wires to ensure a long-lasting repair.
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Note: Replacing this usually requires pulling the steering wheel—check our "Horn Caps" section if you need a puller or new contacts!
Smart Repair: Turn Signal Canceling Cams
The "click" you hear when you finish a turn is the Canceling Cam doing its job. On vintage cars, these plastic cams become brittle and snap, meaning your signal stays on forever.
The Cost-Effective Fix Why buy a $100+ switch when a $15 cam will fix it?
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Replacement Cams: We stock the plastic canceling cams for many popular GM, Ford, and Chrysler steering columns.
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Repair Kits: Some kits include the cam and the springs needed to rebuild the top of your switch.
The Return to Center: Turn Signal Springs
It's a tiny part, but when it breaks, it's annoying. The Turn Signal Spring (or detent spring) is responsible for holding the lever in the "Up" or "Down" position and snapping it back to center.
Don't Replace the Whole Switch Often, the switch is fine, but the spring has snapped. We sell these hard-to-find springs individually, allowing you to save money by repairing your original switch mechanism.
